Chusetts



E. W. DUNBAR AND G. FERGUSON.

METHOD OF MAKING TURN SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 31. I919.

Patented Dec.

srnrns PATENT onmon.

ERNEST W. ID'UIIBAR, OF HUDSON, AND GEORGE FERGUSON, 0F WOLLASTON,MASSA- UH'USETTS, ASSIGNDRS T0 UNITED SHOE IVIAGHINERY CORPORATION, OFPATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPGRATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD 01E MAKING- TURN-SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 23,1919.

Application filed March 31, 1919. Serial No. 286,520.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, ERNEST W. DUNBAR and GEORGE FERGUSON, citizens ofthe United States, residing at Hudson, in the county of ll/liddlesex,and Wollaston, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts,respectively, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of MakingTurn-Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with theaccompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters onthe drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

The present invention relates to the manu facture of shoes and moreespecially it con cerns the manufacture of shoes of the type commonlyknown as turn shoes. In the manufacture of turn shoes the shoeupper issewed to the sole by single faced stitches while the upper is insideout, the stitches being received in a shoulder or sewing rib formed onthe upper side of the sole and subsequently the shoe is turned rightsideout. By reason of the shoulder or sewing rib on the sole beingdisposed in the interior of the turned shoe it is necessary to insert afiller, sometimes termed a slip sole, in the shoe in order to providethe interior of the shoe witha smooth and level surface to engage thefoot. It is customary to insert this filler or slip sole in theshoeafter the shoe has been turned right side out and before relastingthe shoe, so as to avoid restricting the free turnmg of the shoe and toenable a shank stiffener to be incorporated in the shoe. This practicenecessitates worki in in the interior of the shoe which is very di icultand inconvenient and, moreover, it does not admit of sufiicient accuracyin performing this operation to provide adequately for shoe comfort andappearance.

An object of the present invention is to obviate these and otherdisadvantages and to provide for manufacturing turn shoes with greaterfacility and to better advantage, as well as toinsure comfortable andsatisfactory foot-engaging surfaces in the shoes.

With this object in view the present invention, in one of its aspects,contemplates a method of making turn shoes which consists in firstsewing a shoe upper inside out a to a sole having arib extendmg alongits upper marginal surface to receive the upper the shoe.

attaching stitches, applying to the sole a sheet filler shaped to fillthe recess within the said rib, attaching the filler in the recess atthe forepart of the sole turning the shoe right side out, incorporatinga shank stiffener in the shoe between the unattached portion of thefiller and the sole and thereafter relasting the shoe and completing itsmanufacture. For the purpose of illustration the sole herein shownconsists of vulcanized rubber having a sewing rib extending along itsupper marginal surface to receive the stitches for sewing the shoe upperto the sole, the rib terminating at substantially the heel breast lineon either side. The filler, which consists of flexible sheet materialsuch as felt or similar material, may conveniently he died out to ashape to fill the recess formed by the rib through the forepart and theshank and thus level off the upper surface of the sole flush with thetop of the rib. In applying the filler to the sole it is preferablycemented in position in the recess at the forepart of the shoe and leftunattached to the sole through the shank. In this way the shoe may beaccurately and conveniently fitted to the sole and the shoe then readilyturned without dis placing the filler. Also, bv leaving the shankportion of the filler unattached to the sole, a shank stiffener may bereadily applied to the upper side of the sole and then covered by thefiller prior to relasting The invention in another of its aspects, andas herein illustrated, further contemplates a method of making turnshoes which includes the use of a filler having an integral heel seatportion upon which the heel end of the shoe upper is lasted after theshoe has been turned to complete the incorporation of the filler as aunitary part of the shoe. By this procedure, if desired, the use of ashank member separate from the forepart filler, to which to fasten thelasted-in portion of the upper around the heel and to level off theshank and heel seat portion on the interior of the shoe may be avoided.

The invention in its various aspects will In the drawings,

Figure 1 illustrates in perspective a filler such as may be convenientlyemployed in the practice of the method of the invention;

Fig. 2 shows in perspective the application of the filler to a sole towhich the upper has been secured before the shoe is turned right sideout;

Fig. 3 shows the incorporation of the shank stiffener in the shoe afterthe shoe is turned right side out, and

Fig. 4 shows theheel portion of the shoe lasted on to the heel seatportion of the fillerand the shoe ready for the attachment of a heel.

In carrying out the invention in one manner in which it has beensuccessively prac- -tised, a turn sole 2, together with the shoe upper,is first assembled on the last 6 with the upper turned inside out in thecustomary manner and as shown in Fig. 2. In the illustrated embodimentof the invention "the sole 2'is of vulcanized rubber and has a nailedseat turn shoe.

- select this kind the rib 8 to which the upper is attached producesrecess through the forepart and shank of the sole whlch it is necessaryto fill 1n order to provide a smooth and level fOOt-GD ZL 'lDQ' surfaceon the interior of the shoe. In the practice of the method of theinvention the shoe upper 31s sewed inside out to the sole by means ofthe sewing rib in the usual manner of any i turn shoe. 2 Prior to theturning of the shoe right side outfhowever, and preferably be fore theshoe is removed from the last 6,

filler or slip sole12 is applied to-the shoe.

vThis filler,'illustrated in Fig. 1, is preferably cut out of sheetmaterial such as felt or other flexible andwear-resisting material.

.The filler is shaped -so as'to fit within the recess formed by thesewing rib 8 through "the forepartand shankof the sole and at itsheel-"end itYis provided with an integral heel .iseat portion "l tof ashape to cover the zentire heel 'seat area on the interior'of the shoe.

' In laccordance with the succeeding step in'the process thisfi1ler12fis fitted into the recess on the upperside of the sole 2, "theforepart. portion of the filler being per- :m'anentl'y *attached, as bycement, to the [sole whilethe shank and heel-seat portions :of thefillerware left unattached'to the sole. iByz-fittingrthe filler 12 on tothe sole 2 before the shoe is turned right side out a more convenientworkin condition and greater accuracy is obtainable than where thefiller is inserted in the shoe after it is turned. Preferably the filler12 is fitted in the recess formed by the sewing rib 8 very snugly sothat after the shoe is turned right side out and the sole reverselyconformed (particularly transversely) to that in which it is maintainedbefore turning, the sewing rib 8 acts to bind or contract the filler inthe recess. After the filler 12 has been applied to the sole asdescribed, the last (3 is withdrawn and the shoe turned right side outin the usual manner. The free turning of the shoe is not interfered withby the addition of the sheet filler and by reason of the attachment ofthe filler to the sole at the forepart it is not displaced from itspredetermined location on the sole during the turning operation.

In the next step of the process the un attached shank and heel seatportion of the filler 12 is lifted up and a shank member 16 of anysuitable construction is placed on the upper side of the sole, so as tolie within the sewing rib on either side of the shoe and convenientlyfastened in position by a shank attaching means 20 arranged to projectthrough a hole in the shank member as illustrated in Fig. 3. The shankand heel. seat portion of the filler is then laid down into position tocover the shank piece. Thereafter a second last is inserted in the shoeas in the usual process of making turn shoes and the heel end portion ofthe upper 4t lasted over on to the heel seat portion 14 of the filler.This manner of heel seat lasting on to the filler eliminates thenecessity of using the usual heel seat and shank member ordinarily usedin nailed seat turn shoes and in addition it completes the at tachmentof the filler against displacement and incorporates the filler as aunitary part of the shoe. As in making any nail seat turn shoe, the heelseat portion of the sole is neXt fastened down on the shoe bottom as byheel seat nailing and a heel then attached to the shoe. If desired, asock lining or other finishing layer of material may be applied to theupper side of the filler to improve the appearance of the interior ofthe shoe.

It will be noted that-by the practice of the method above described theoperation of filling or otherwise leveling ofi the interior of the shoeafter the upper has been attached can be more accurately performed thanby prior methods and this without interfering or otherwise restrictingthe customary turn shoe operations during its manufacture. Also it is tobe appreciated that the shank stiffener may be incorporated in-a shoe tobetter advantage inasmuch as it is positively maintained in position bythe overlying filler and in additionthe cost of a shank filler suitablefor use in connection with this method is much less than the cost of thepresent types of stiffeners. A common objection to the prior methods offilling turn shoes is that the filler is ordinarily cemented in positionat one or two places and consequently in the wear of the shoe the fillertends to work loose and becomes displaced, thus causing discomforture tothe wearer. The practice of this process, however, enables the filler tobe incorporated in the shoe in such manner that it in fact becomes aunitary part of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists insewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its uppermarginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, applying tothe sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess 1 within the said rib,attaching the filler in the recess at the forepart of the sole only,turning the shoe right side out, incorporating a shank stil'ener in theshoe between the filler and the sole and thereafter relasting the shoeand completing its manufacture.

2. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists insewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its uppermarginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, attaching tothe forepart of the sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess withinthe rib throughout the forepart and the shank, turning the shoe rightside out, inserting a shank stiffener between the unattached shankportion of the filler and the sole, completing the attachment of thefiller to the sole, and thereafter performing subsequent operations tocomplete the manufacture of the shoe.

3. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists insewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its uppermarginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, attaching tothe forepart of the sole a sheet filler shaped to it the recess withinthe rib throughout the forepart and shank and having a heel seat portionfor the attachment of the heel portion of the shoe upper, turning theshoe right side out, inserting a shank stifiener between the unattachedshank portion of the filler and the sole, lasting the margin of the heelportion of the shoe upper over on to the heel seat portion of the fillerand fastening it in lasted position, relasting the shoe, and thereafterperforming subsequent operations to complete the manufacture of theshoe.

4:. That improvement in the art of making turn shoes which consists insewing a shoe upper inside out to a sole having a rib along its uppermarginal surface to receive the upper attaching stitches, attaching tothe forepart of the sole a sheet filler shaped to fill the recess withinthe rib throughout the forepart and the shank and havinga heel seatportion, turning the shoe right side out, inserting a shank stiffenerbetween the unattached shank portion of the filler and the sole,relasting the shoe, lasting the heel end of the shoe upper on to theheel seat portion of the filler, and thereafter comp1eting themanufacture of the shoe in the usual manner.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification.

ERNEST W. DUNBAR. GEORGE FERGUSON.

